Part 3
The load column
I am not
going to get into science of the load, or any fancy formula’s for loading
shells. These will be basic by volume loads. I will leave the experimenting and
tweaking to the user. I can tell you that they work for Cowboy action shooting
and small game hunting. There’s enough room left over in the case for any
adjustment and the same load can be used in a plastic or paper hull. You can
also experiment with wad columns for improving patterns. Again I will leave that to the discretion of
the user. What I hope to accomplish is just simple easy learn to load
techniques’. The following items will be
needed;
Powder I prefer the true Black Powder and for shot gun and most of my other cartridge needs
I like FFg. Debates on brands to use will continue as
long as we shoot these. Let’s say in my case price matters. We're not shooting
silhouettes at 400 and 500 meters away.
You will need the following wads and all are available
again at many on-line retailers
You will need
12ga. fiber wads. These come in packs of 500 and they are specific in size
and they are also available pre lubed. It again is the user choice, to use
lubed or plain ones. I lube my own. I would share that information if my readers
are interested.
My friend Tom uses 11ga. wads I believe. Because of some sizing issues.
You will also need the ¼’x 12ga. Nitro cards.
Finally order some at least with new shells 11ga. or 10ga. Top cards. The top card should be a
little bit bigger; I will go into detail later. However if you had bought some
older used brass or as they get fired some you might want to use 10ga. Top cards
You will need some shot of choice.
Then along with your assortment of mandrills and other
tools you will need the powder and shot scoops and a couple containers to hold
loose powder and shot in, while you scoop it out. A couple of old cool whip
dishes will work.
As you can see in the picture I have taken to pieces
of some scrap lumber and used a ¾” flat boring bit. Boring thru one sheet with 50 holes. Then
screwing and gluing it on top of a second piece of scrap wood cut the same
size. You can buy some and if you have a
steady table to line them up on between stages it will work.
clock wise Duco cement
assorted scoops
shot and powder
10 gauge over shot (white)
12 gauge fiber wads (dark)
12 gauge Nitro cards (light brown)
Shot mix, NOTE; Shining pellets are reclaimed shot
I load what is often referred to as a 1 ounce
equivalent load. By volume. This simple
means both the shot and powder take up the same equal amount of space. This has
nothing to do with it actual weight. That said, you will get approximately 101 shot shells per
pound of powder using my method. Not 16 rounds. This will leave the shot
columns a little low. You can do several
things and again this is total to the user discretion. The easiest fix is to split
a fiber wad in half. Using 1 ½ wads in the columns. I don’t concern with it. As you will see.
Take a fresh primed hull and pour into the bottom one
scoop of FFg Black powder. I am using a
1 ounce equivalent load. This works out to about 4.3 cc if you are using the
Lee scoops, or around 65 grains of powder.
Place one nitro card on top of the powder and with
your mandrill or a dowel rod press down firmly.
Follow this up with your fiber wad, again press this
down firmly assuring there is no
air space between wads or powder.
Now with the same size scoop, Add one dipper of shot.
I generally use number 8, however. When I buy or acquire shot I just add it to
what existing shot I have on hand. Meaning some times it’s a mix of size.
On top of this place and press down firmly one Top
Card. Again it is important that the Top Card or Over Shot card be larger than
the hull size you are loading.
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You will notice if you exam that the top card. You
will see the outer edge rolled up on the sides.
This helps hold it in place.
Now to seal it off! Thru out the Gun Forums you see
people swear up and down their method is best.
You will have to form your own opinion on this. I have tried several
methods, including Hot glue, White Elmers, and Wood glue. I currently use Duco
Cement it’s liquid. I may use Water Seal and this is a alternative option. The
Duco seems to be as good as any of the glues.
Place a large drop on the edge of the card where it
meets the inner brass wall. I now take the hull between my thumb and fore
finger and roll the glue drop around the entire edge. Note; sometimes when I
have had these pre-made for several months, I will re-glue them the day before
needed. When you use a double barrel,
there’s nothing worst than shooting the first round off and then watch the shot
from the 2nd round pour out the barrel. Making the round unusable in
a timed event. Really sucks since you have now wasted the shot and the time to
reload a shot that is needed.
Let these dry overnight. Before boxing or using in competition
a user may one to give the hull a coat of a silicone based wax. I do this with
my brass, paper and plastic hulls. The
double barrels we use have no ejectors. The silicone wax aids in the ejection
of the spent hull.
I have just given a cheap viable method of reloading
shells be it for cowboy shooting and or for your anarchist ways. It is one of
the most asked questions on the major Cowboy forums. I won’t get into smokeless
loads in Brass shells my opinion plastic hulls remain best for this. However
you could use the same methods for loading them. Including the plastic
wads. Have fun with this and be safe.
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