Let’s get started. Part 2
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now you have either gathered up the items you need or have them on order. So
now you are ready to get started. So put your safety glasses on and let’s get
going. (Author’s comment, If you have to
be told to wear safety glasses then you might not want to do this on your own.
I don’t want to sound like a smart ass. There are so many critical people who
would comment on not using them, then there’s the Lawyer thing. That alone is enough said on the
subject.) First my Brass has all been used. If yours has been used, then
run them thru the Tumbler or Vibrator with what ever method you like for
cleaning brass. That is a whole different subject. For the sake of this article from here on
thru we will intend the brass has been used. However if yours is new out of the
box, then use what parts of this section you need and retain the rest for
future use. After cleaning and running thru the media separator, I then begin
removing spent primers. This can be done with a homemade tool and or a awl or a
Lee replacement decapping pin, in this case I use the
brass mandrill lower left of picture in Photo #1
Placing the cleaned hull on the on the depriming anvil
(center) a 7/8” deep well socket will work.
I am able to drive the spent primer from the inside of the hull out thru
the center hole in the anvil. A good solid blow from a mallet is required. This
method also
Ensures the brass has not been deformed or
smashed. With the brass mandrill you can
sometimes take a brass or rubber mallet and tap/shrink tap the hulls back to
shape. Now that you have deprimed the hulls. It is time to clean all your
primer pockets. This is a tedious task. It is not hard to do but takes a bit of
time. Commercial primer pocket tools are readily available from any the
companies that offer reloading tools and accessories, you can also use a pocket
size screwdriver with a flat tip. Just give it a couple of twist and scrape any
excessive build up out. Picture #2 I am using a commercial bought tool.
Tap or blow out any loose particles. When you are happy with each piece. You’ll
know. Well move to the top end and give
it a quick cleaning. I do this for one reason basically. I want to give a good
clean surface for the glue to dry on the last step. So here’s how I do it. I
use a ¾” plumber’s pipe fitting brush. Seen on the table above, with the wire
loop handle. I give few quick turns of it in the mouth of the hull. You need
not go all the way down unless you visually found something needing removed.
I must warn if you clean all the way down with a new
brush you may really have to pull and twist hard to get it out. It will come
out it just takes a little muscle. I will try to show a picture of how they
look later when they are clean in the final chapter.
Picture #3 cleaning the mouth of the hull. Now you may
substitute some fine 400 grit or finer sand paper or some 0000 steel wool. Just
make sure blow out any fragments’ and dust.
The dog is there to point anything I drop.
This process all done and you have visually inspected
for cracks and any other deformities we can move on and prime the hull. Again I
am not here to pimp any Name Brands. Anything you see me using is by choice,
not product placement. In the photo
below #6 and photo #7 not a real good photo and I hope it will still help. I
have placed the new primer on a solid block of steel. This came with my
reloading set. However many other things can be used? I however don’t use this
method and am only showing this because it is the most basic way of placing a
new primer in a hull. I will show my preferred way of installing a new primer
further into the chapter. Center the cleaned ready hull over the primer.
Photo 7a Misc. tools and Measuring scoops etc.
Notice the recess in the end of the mandrill to go
over the inner primer pocket, I believe
a deep well 5/8” socket could also replace this tool.
Now with the Mandrill and a Mallet I give the mandrill
a good solid whack. Pushing the empting hull down over the primer, and into the
pocket. Now check your work. This is a critical step and the most dangerous of
all the steps. Making sure you do not
have a “Hi Primer”. This can be the slightest or to the most obvious. A small
stiff strait edge drug across the bottom without restriction should indicate if
it is set properly. If not set the mandrill in the empty hull and give it
another good whack. The first couple of times take a bit of practice, till you
gain a feel for it. Now let me give you the WARNING and my reasoning on why this
is the most dangerous part of the process.
Primers react to a blow of a some what dull point of a firing pin
causing a chemical reaction within. However a firing pin is not the only way to
cause this reaction. Friends I have detonated several primers when setting them
this way. I have suffered no injuries from it unless you count the stripe in my
boxer’s. This said don’t disregard this as being okay or safe. There is a flash
of flame. BTW that’s what they are supposed to do. So open containers of powers
may flash up, you could burn your fingers and also cause small particles of
junk to blow in your face. Wear your safety glasses! I have found one devise I really like.
Assuming you already has a loading press of some type. I have a found a 12
gauge shell holder. I use this to prime all my hulls now and feel much safer
doing so. Well worth the 15 bucks or so it cost me. Seen in Photo #8/ #9 below.
I have in this case simply removed the
tool head on the loader and use it with the ram and priming ram to seat
primers.
The Primed Hull ready for your load. Now why you wait
for the “Brown Truck” to deliver the rest of your goodies practice this.
Watching for high primers; note here also. These can really impede your times
in a time event. Causing your double barrel shotgun not to go to battery.
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